Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Italian beef food fight: Al's versus Johnnie's

The first official food fight went down this past Saturday, and this time around it was Chicago Italian beef sandwiches that went head-to-head. We pitted Al's, the oldest Italian beef eatery in Chicago, against Johnnie's, which only has two locations but always has a line out the door no matter what the time of day.

Both Al's and Johnnie's follow the basics of the traditional Italian beef (with Al's, arguably, being the original creator of the Italian beef sandwich), but they both taste extraordinarily different. All of the eight food fight participants had something to say about which they thought was best after tasting both sandwiches. Only one person had eaten at Al's and Johnnie's before.

The rules for this food fight were simple. People ordered their food in whatever way they chose as long as they got Italian beef. While this may affect the results in some way, I wanted people to order what toppings they'd normally order, because if they don't like hot giardiniera, then they for sure wouldn't like their beef sandwich.

To keep our biases in check, each of the eight participants could award up to 20 points at each restaurant, making a possible high total of 160 points. Everyone rated their sandwiches based on these categories:
* Taste: up to 10 points
* Quality of toppings/bread/juice: up to 5 points
* Presentation of sandwich/ease of eating: up to 5 points

[Pictures documenting this food fight are in a slideshow at the end of this post].

JOHNNIE'S
7500 W North Ave.
Elmwood Park, IL 60707

The food fight started at Johnnie's. At 3:30pm, the line was short and the food flew across the counter into our waiting hands. The menu at Johnnie's is simple with beef sandwiches, hot dogs, sausages, fries, and, a customer favorite, Italian ice.

After ordering, all participants gathered around the outdoor table - because Johnnie's doesn't have any indoor seating - and chowed down. With an even number of participants, most everyone split a sandwich so as to save room for the next taste test at Al's. While the mood of this food fight was much more subdued than the hot dog war of August, people still had plenty of opinions.

The sandwich I shared with my boyfriend was the standard Italian beef sandwich complete with hot giardiniera. The meat was still plenty wet, even with most of the juices soaking into the Italian bun and even though my boyfriend and I didn't get our sandwich dipped. (A true sign of a good Italian beef, I say, is that the sandwich doesn't need to be dipped in order to showcase all the meat's juices). With a few big bites, my half of the sandwich was gone, and I continued spooning out the large Italian ice, the perfect cold complement to a hot and spicy sandwich.

What the other participants said:
* Yikes! The food is too hot (in a spicy way).
* There isn't enough juice and everything's falling out. (Granted, he didn't get his 'dipped' since he didn't know he could).
* The meat and the giardiniera taste delicious.
* There's plenty of juice even without getting the sandwich dipped.
* Amazing. I'm speechless.

After eating and collecting all the votes, we sat, letting the food digest as we talked. We would have stayed longer too, but then a bee - which hadn't checked into the yellow jacket motels hanging above our heads - started chasing my boyfriend. We all skee-dattled out of the parking lot and to the next contender in the Italian beef fight.

AL'S
1036 Higgins Rd
Park Ridge, IL 60068

This food fight might be remembered as the 1st Avenue fight as both restaurant locations weren't too far off of 1st avenue. Over at Al's in Park Ridge, the restaurant was empty except for one other customer. The choices of sandwiches seemed overwhelming in comparison to Johnnie's. Al's famous Italian beef sandwich not only came in various sizes (or bread lengths) but also offered even more toppings - provolone or american cheese anyone? The menu also contained much more than just beef, including pizza, chicken wings, hot dogs, chicken, wraps, salads, and even tamales.

But we came for Italian beef and that's what everyone got. This time around, my boyfriend and I got our sandwiches loaded with stuff - or so we thought. We asked for provolone, sweet peppers, and hot giardiniera. Unfurling the sandwich from the wrapper, we were delighted to see how appealing the sandwich looked. But then we took a bite.

The meat was drier than at Johnnie's (if you don't get it dipped), and it had a strange sweet flavor that wasn't coming from the peppers, as if the meat was seasoned with ginger or all spice. The giardiniera was not like any giardiniera I'd seen before - gone were the carrots and cauliflower - and the little spice we tasted came from red pepper flakes.

For most participants the food was edible, but we wondered aloud: this is Al's famous beef? Something must be wrong. And then one of the guys hurried away from the table, ran to the bathroom, and puked. Mind you, he's a tall guy and can eat a lot (and he was only eating halves of sandwiches). As he said, something in the food hit the stop button on the way down and wanted out. Fortunately, everyone else had, at the very least, a better experience with their food.

What the other participants said:
* Looked good, not too oily, but disappointing overall.
* Where's my giardiniera?
* I like the fries. But the meat tastes oddly sweet and nasty.
* I like this bread better.
* My beef is too dry. And what is that funky sweet taste on the meat?

And the winner is...
The points were tallied, a winner was announced, and none of the food fight participants were surprised.


We definitely didn't have the good experience that we expected from Al's. But other than the one participant's unfortunate experience in the bathroom, we thought the sandwiches were decent... just different from Johnnie's and not what we'd expect from a traditional Chicago Italian beef. Who knows? Maybe the result would have been different had we gone to a different location? Maybe the batch of meat at Al's was cooked differently than usual?

Nonetheless, the first official food fight of Chicago Food Fights was deemed a success with Johnnie's the clear winner. Do you agree with the pick of Johnnie's over Al's? Or do you have another favorite Italian beef restaurant?

Check back for more food fights over which classic Chicago dishes my friends and I like best.




Friday, September 25, 2009

Food fight preview: what makes an Italian beef sandwich

The first official Chicago Food Fight goes down this afternoon. But before we get our sandwiches dipped, are we clear on what makes a Chicago-style Italian Beef sandwich?


Photo: stu spivack/flickr

Here's a quick run-down of what makes this juicy beef sandwich a favorite Chicago dish:

1) Obviously the most important: beef that is slow-cooked in a seasoned broth, which is referred to as a gravy even though it has the consistency of a juice.

2) Bread, sliced lengthwise: Typically Italian bread or rolls since other breads don't provide enough "wet strength" considering all the juices that should be in and on the sandwich.

3) Toppings: Green peppers/sweet peppers

4) And more toppings: mild or hot giardiniera. Chicagoans must like piling the veggies on their food (I mean, c'mon, look at the Chicago-style hot dog), because giardiniera is packed with carrots, cauliflower, peppers, celery, onions, and olives. (On Wednesday, I mentioned how much I love buffalo sauce. Today, I tell you that giardiniera comes in a close second on my list of favorite dressings/toppings. Apparently I like the hot stuff).

After the beef is thinly sliced and piled high onto the bread, some Chicagoans like to get their Italian beef sandwiches 'dipped' in the juice, or the gravy, to add even more flavors to this favorite Chicago treat.

Tomorrow's food fight pits the original Italian Beef restaurant, Al's, against one of Chicagoland's favorites, Johnnie's. Which will reign supreme?

Don't agree with the choice of Italian beef food fight contenders? Let me know where you get your favorite Italian Beef in the comments below!

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Mexican food winner: XOCO

Rick Bayless makes the food at XOCO, need I say more? Probably not, but I will anyway.
Photo: Fuzzy Gerdes/Flickr

Gold Coast Dogs is to Hot Doug's as Burrito House is to XOCO. In other words, XOCO is in a class of its own. Unless you're comparing XOCO (which in ancient Aztec language is slang for "little sister") to the other Rick Bayless restaurants - Frontera Grill, Frontera Fresco, and Topolobampo - there is no comparison. Just as in the other Bayless restaurants, the wait will be long but your growling stomach will for sure be satisfied.

The restaurant's website proclaims that XOCO is a quick-service cafe that serves contemporary street food - but this definitely isn't your typical street side vendor. (For one, service isn't that quick when there's a line going out the door). After standing in line, orders are placed with the cashier, and you take a number before being shown to one of forty available seats. Chips do not come with every meal, but can be ordered for $3 with salsa or $4 with guacamole.

Tortas are available starting at 11am, and caldos, or meal-in-a-bowl soups, are available beginning at 3pm. The typical drinks line the menu, but hot chocolate drinks, made from Mexican cacao beans that are ground right there in the restaurant, are available as well.

To supplement my Wednesday lunch, I ordered a churro, made in the XOCO kitchen, which came warm on my plate and covered in plenty of sugar. I tried to ignore the temptation of eating it before my torta arrived, but gave in easily, making dessert my appetizer. Both crunchy and soft, the sugar fell onto the plate with each bite.

Just as we were done with the churros and waiting for the food to be delivered to the table, out walks Rick Bayless from the back kitchen. It took me a second to realize that he was there, not on the TV show Top Chef Masters, but right there in the restaurant, wearing his white chef jacket, standing two feet away from me. TWO FEET! Very surreal. But also really cool to know that one of the best chefs in the country - even before he was dubbed so by the Bravo TV show - was making the food I was just about to eat.

Oh the tortas! First, cooked in the wood burning oven, the torta bread on the choriqueso was crunchy. The filling was made of a spicy chorizo tempered by jack cheese and the tangy taste of a tomatillo salsa. Some roasted poblano rounded off the dish, giving it just a bit more kick and crunch.

While I enjoyed the choriqueso, the cochinita pibil torta won me over with an explosion of flavors. The heart of this dish is tender suckling pig meat, which is slow-cooked to soak up the marinade of citrus - from orange and lemon juice, typically - and achiote, which adds both a sweet and slightly peppery taste. Pickled onions, made with a dash of cumin, add a bit more sweetness as well as a crunch (a different variety of crunch than the torta bread provides). A habanero sauce came on the side, but I didn't dare use more than a drop for fear of burning away my taste buds. The black beans somewhat got lost in the mix, but otherwise all the flavors intertwined wonderfully, resulting in a hearty taste that makes you never want to take a sip of your drink again - even if it is one of XOCO's chocolate drinks that are sinfully delicious and have the consistency of pudding - because you don't want the taste to leave your mouth and you can't imagine Mexican food ever tasting this good again.

Seriously. It's that good. Don't believe me? Go try XOCO for yourself and then tell me what you think.


XOCO
449 North Clark Street (enter on Illinois St.)
Chicago, IL 60654
Ph.: 312-334-3688
Hours:
Tues.-Fri.: 7:00am – 9:00pm
Sat.: 8:00am – 9:00pm

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Get the chicken wings at Murphy's

Pull up a stool and order some chicken wings at Murphy's Bleachers - but don't bother getting the pizza.

If you know me then you know how much I love buffalo sauce, usually on chicken wings but also in salads. I love the finger-licking-good flavor, but its also the heat and spiciness that has me coming back for more. I'm always on the hunt for new chicken wings to try around the city, and Murphy's has got some of the best I've tried in a long while.

On a Tuesday night when the Cubs are out of town, the gargantuan bar was practically empty, even though it's usually hopping before, during, and after a Cubs game. As the boyfriend and I waited for our to-go sausage pizza, we ordered an appetizer of chicken wings, which were $8 for 10. These wings aren't typical . There was a smoky flavor that worked well with the vinegar and cayenne that usually makes a buffalo sauce. Needless to say, every bite of those wings were gone before we left with our pizza. Then again, it took us awhile to leave.

While the pizza was brought to us faster than expected (average wait time for a Murphy's pizza: 40 minutes) and the bill was delivered to us quickly, it took the two bartenders for-ev-er to come get the credit card. They weren't even busy serving the other six customers. They lolly-gagged, watching the game, occasionally swiping down the unused sections of the bar. We eventually got their attention, but it took much longer than it should have.

As for the main course, we had high expectations for the pizza. The boyfriend had ordered it many times before when he lived in East Lakeview, and he said it was one of the best he's ever had. But the sausage pizza left a lot to be desired this time around (we both agreed), and even left a bad taste in our mouth.

The pizza tasted as if someone had accidentally dumped the wrong kind of seasoning, spice, or something that didn't belong into both the dough and the red sauce. The crust was thicker than the normal thin crust. All in all, the outer crust - which had tiny flecks of something in it - was inedible. While the sausage and cheese tasted good enough, it did little to make it worthwhile.

Even though the pizza was disappointing, I may try it again... eventually. After all, it was considered one of the boyfriend's favorites at one point in time. Maybe a different cook was working on Tuesday? Maybe an ingredient was used that isn't usually? Who knows.

Either way, I'll definitely be back for the chicken wings. But next time I'll go on Monday when they offer $0.25 wings.

(Note: I usually take pictures to accompany my posts - so you can salivate over the delicious items I write about - but, alas, I didn't have my camera with me).

Murphy's Bleachers
3653 N Sheffield Ave.
Chicago, IL 60613-4303
Ph.: (773) 929-7061

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Welcome to Chicago Food Fights!

No need to get your throwing arm ready. This blog isn't about those kinds of food fights.

Instead, Chicago Food Fights is about finding the best foods in Chicago, the best flavors, and the dishes that have you coming back for more. Most of all, Chicago Food Fights is about pitting two dishes against one another, because, let's face it, we all have different favorites when it comes to what the best dishes are in Chicago.

The idea for this blog grew out of a long-standing argument between my friends and me about which Chicago hot dog classic is better: Gene & Jude's or Superdawg? After I became the Chicago Hot Dog Examiner for examiner.com in June 2009, we finally decided to settle the argument by letting the food speak for itself and by holding the first ever Chicago hot dog war.

We travelled to both restaurants, sampled the menu fare, tried to keep an open mind, and voted. (For the play-by-play and official results, go here.) We all had a blast arguing over the quality of the dogs, what role the ambiance should play, talking about the snap of the dogs, and which toppings were better - and we didn't want the war to end. So we've decided to have more 'food fights,' but with different Chicago classics. What's the best deep-dish pizza? Italian beef? Chicken wings? Find out by staying tuned to my new blog, Chicago Food Fights.

In addition to pitting various dishes against each other and documenting the 'food fights' I have with my friends, I'm also starting this blog to share restaurant reviews, where I've found awesome deals/specials, and the dishes you've got to try when you visit and/or explore the Windy City next.

Why am I putting this blog together? I'll never ever ever claim to be a cook on this site, but I love food, trying new food and new restaurants, learning about food, starting arguments about food and... you get the idea. I know I'll have fun putting this blog together, and I hope you have fun with it too.

Have a favorite Chicago dish that you think should be part of a food fight? Let me know.

Have a new restaurant or dish you think I should try? Let me know.

Disagree with my top-pick for a dish? Let me know.

Let this blog be a forum for your opinion on all things related to Chicago food, and let the food fights begin!